2024 Finke desert race and after-
adventure
If you’ve never visited the outback,
you really should
Our Values
31st May 2024; Travelling to Alice Springs
Travelling to Alice Springs: Canberra to Renmark SA
Finally, it’s time to take off for the Finke race, Alice Springs to Finke and back.
1st June 2024; Renmark to Coober Pedy SA
Travelling to Alice Springs: Renmark to Coober Pedy SA
An early start, 6am out of Renmark. Not too cold this morning but lots of fog.
2nd June 2024; Coober Pedy to Alice Springs
Travelling to Alice Springs: Coober Pedy to Alice Springs
Sleep in to 5.30 for a 6: 30 departure. Not too cool this morning and a bit later than our usual start so the dawn is already starting.
3rd June 2024; Practice Day 1. Alice Springs
Practice Day 1; Alice Springs
Sleep in for a change. Had a cabin in the first row near the Stuart highway and had quite a lot of truck noise compared to cabins further back.
4th June 2024; Practice Day 2 Alice Springs
Practice Day 2. Alice Springs
Managed to organise a satellite phone for delivery from Adelaide to Alice before we leave next Wednesday.
5th June 2024; 'Rest day’ Alice Springs
‘Rest day’. Alice Springs
Washing day. But grey clouds, but fingers crossed the sun will come out like yesterday.
We all went out to the Telegraph Station for coffee and cake.
6th June 2024; Alice Springs, Standley Chasm
Alice Springs; sight seeing
Relaxed start. Roy tinkered on the bike.
Headed to ARB to see if they could fix an intermittent fault in the car- failed front camera-so we lose cruise control.
7th June 2024; Alice Springs scrutineering
Alice Springs; Scrutineering
Lots of organising bike and kit ready for this scrutineering this afternoon.
Satellite phone hotspot arrived from Adelaide- yea!!!!
8th June 2024; Alice Springs Prologue
Alice Springs; Prologue
Out to the track at 9am.
Riders sign on at 10:30am then we headed down to the car to kit up.
9th June 2024; Race Day one. Alice Springs to Finke.
Race Day one: Alice Springs to Finke.
Out to the track in time for sign on at 10 o’clock. We left the cabin about 8.30am to make sure we were there in plenty of time for Roy to kit up
10th June 2024; Day 2 racing. Finke to Alice Springs
Race Day two: Finke to Alice Springs (there and back) .
As usual, there was lots of car noise very early and well before dawn as teams rebuilt their engines and ran them in.
11th June 2024; Alice Springs, Ford service
Alice Springs; Ford service
Normally we get a big sleep in the day after Finke but not today. Had to get the car up to Ford for a calibration of the camera so we can get cruise control back for the big drive
12th June 2024; Pamayu
Alice Springs to Pamayu
Woke early well before the 6am alarm, shower, breakfast and throw last things into the car.
Results are in.
13th June 2024; Manballoo (Katherine)
Pamayu to Manballoo
We had a reasonably relaxed start to the day. Made a full breakfast in the room and were driving out before 8am.
More below
14th June 2024; Victoria River Roadhouse
Victoria River Roadhouse
We made a leisurely start on a cool morning. What a change from the stinking heat yesterday when we arrived.
15th June 2024; Kununurra
Kununurra
We left Victoria River 7:45am to drive west in the golden hour light.
Settled in for the drive.
16th June 2024 Kununurra
Kununurra
Rest and sightseeing day
17th June Gibb R Rd
Gibb River road to Ellenbrae Station
Headed off to the Gibb River Road about 7:45am after a big reorganisation and pack up at Kununurra.
18th June Ellenbrae station
Ellenbrae station to Drysdale Station
Cold night!
Should have known better and taken sleeping bag up top.
19th June Drysdale to Mitchell Plateau
Drysdale Station to Mitchell Plateau
Driving out of Drysdale at 9am to head off to Mitchell plateau.
We crossed the Drysdale River and other smaller water crossings. Road was rough.
20th June Mitchell Falls
Mitchell Falls
5:30am alarm for plenty of time to be at the helicopter office by 7, packed and ready to walk.
21st June King Edward River camp; Day 1
King Edward River camp
Not far to go today from Mitchell falls to King Edward campground.
22nd June King Edward River camp; Day 2
31st May 2024
Travelling to Alice Springs: Canberra to Renmark SA
Finally, it’s time to take off for the Finke race, Alice Springs to Finke and back. We had a late night of last-minute packing and getting the house ready to leave for the house sitter.
It’s been raining over night, but thanks to our new carport much of the load was undercover. Loaded up last bits and pieces in the rain and left at 6:30am, about half an hour later than planned.
Caught up with our team members traveling separately in their car as we were leaving Canberra and exchanged messages.
They were spending time in Wagga with family, and we were taking it easy in the weather with our big load, so we ended up together again when we stopped for fuel down the track.
Caught up again for lunch at the birdcage roadside stop.
On the road again
We saw so many groups of emus along the way that I lost count. Large and small groups and individuals. So wonderful to see them.
Nearly 6pm by the time we got to the citrus motel in Renmark SA. Team was already checked in.
We all went in to the Renmark club for dinner. Sadly, too dark by now to enjoy the view of the River Murray.
1st June 2024
Travelling to Alice Springs: Renmark to Coober Pedy SA
An early start, 6am out of Renmark. Not too cold this morning but lots of fog.
Morning tea stop at Gair pulled into the memorial park and used our toaster to toast banana bread.
Kept bumping into our team members at the most out of the way stops! Crazy!
Many large flocks of tiny birds flying up from the roadside. Finches probably.
Nearly there…
We all stayed at the Mud Huts Motel and had dinner at the grill over the road at the roadhouse.
We are both still recovering from the virus I picked up in Melbourne, so happy to turn in early.
2nd June 2024
Travelling to Alice Springs: Coober Pedy to Alice Springs
Sleep in to 5.30 for a 6: 30 departure. Not too cool this morning and a bit later than our usual start so the dawn is already starting.
Still, it is always beautiful. The sun rose beautifully though perhaps not as spectacular as sometimes. Nonetheless we stopped on the road briefly for some photos.
On to Alice Springs.
Lots of fresh roadkill around from night time road trains, and many crows and wedged- tailed eagles feasting on them.
We pulled into Marla Station for a tea break only to find our team there already setting up their coffee!
Lunch was at the Desert Oaks roadside stop. Lovely red sands and native trees. Once again, our team somehow followed us in.
3 emus! Don’t remember seeing them on this stretch of road before, except fenced in at roadhouses.
We arrived and settled into the Winter Sun caravan park. Did some dinner shopping at the local supermarket which had had a make over and was much more inviting than in the past.
Due to the new alcohol rules, we had to drive into town for some beer and wine. The local grog shop is not open until Wednesday!
We shared BBQ chook, potatoes and salad for dinner with the team who are in the cabin next door. Early night for me but someone watched the Moto GP until late.
3rd June 2024
Practice Day 1. Alice Springs
Sleep in for a change. Had a cabin in the first row near the Stuart highway and had quite a lot of truck noise compared to cabins further back.
Tried to organise a satellite phone in Alice Springs with no luck. All rentals out for Finke. No phones in stock for sales. Mines had bought out all phones now that the old satellite system had gone down.
At 11am the four of us headed out into the race track for pre running. Drove to the first fuel stop at Deep Well, had lunch and coffee.
Took some photos of Roy doing wheelies and we all headed back towards Alice.
OMG red dirt
We pretty well kept pace with Roy on his bike for the distance and met up with him at the beginning of the track near Alice. The bike had an oil leak so, after packing up we stopped at the Yamaha shop in town on the way home. Left the bike there for repairs and headed back to the park. A very kind fellow at the shop agreed to get it fixed either that afternoon or tomorrow. Later in the day we had a call that it was already fixed!
We’ll pick it up on the way out to the track in the morning.
Finally located an iridium system for satellite communication via Adelaide. Sent off the identification information and will talk to them again to set it up in the morning.
Dinner with team again. C cooked salmon, mash and broccolini. I made a salad and supplied chocolate! Yum!
4th June 2024
Practice Day 2. Alice Springs
Managed to organise a satellite phone for delivery from Adelaide to Alice before we leave next Wednesday.
For pre running today, we all jumped in the car and headed out to fuel stop 2 for practice day 2.
Fortunately, the Yamaha shop has been able to fix the oil leak yesterday. Turned out to be quite trivial- a pinched O-ring, so the bike had not lost significant oil. They only charged us $70 for a half hour of labor and were very kind and helpful.
The weather was looking inclement with low grey clouds, but the forecast is for sun. Soon cleared up as we headed out to the track.
Drove all the way to Bundooma and pulled over for lunch. Set up table and chairs behind the car for a wind break. Road was very messy, wet and carved up.
OMG more red dirt
After lunch Roy set off back towards Alice on the bike. We followed along beside him. Much of the track is very close to the road. We lost him a bit before the shared meeting point at fuel stop 1 and he beat us there and got on the two-way radio. We caught up, he refueled and set off again, destination the starting point near Alice. Again, we kept up with him until about the 15km mark then just focused on finding the tricky entry to the car parking area. Thought we missed it and back tracked but then had to turn around again as we hadn’t. By then Roy had come looking for us and guided us back where we pulled off next to the entry road and loaded him up for home.
We nipped into town to post some papers, get groceries for dinner and look for the pop-up merchandise shop. Couldn’t find the latter but all else was successful.
Cooked the steaks on the BBQ, microwaved potatoes and had a green salad followed by yummy ice creams for dessert. Yum.
5th June 2024
‘Rest day’. Alice Springs
Washing day. But grey clouds, but fingers crossed the sun will come out like yesterday.
We all went out to the Telegraph Station for coffee and cake. Beautiful there if a bit cool. Very cheeky birds, either Noisy Miner or Yellow throated honeyeater, also pigeons and butcher birds. Lovely dry creek bed on the way in to the cafe.
Did a little souvenir shopping then headed out to the track for sign-on.
Transponder was flat so headed home for lunch and charge the transponder.
After lunch we had another try to locate the pop up merch shop, this time successfully. Spent lots of money and then nipped back out to the track with the charged transponder- checked in took only moments and then back to the van via the shops for a quick top up of greens and beer.
Time for the traditional team ‘selfie’ at the track starting line.
State of Origin: Go the Blues!
Worked on the bike, oil change etc. then out to Lassitters casino to watch the state of origin game 1.
Sad result, Blues didn’t win.
6th June 2024
Alice Springs; sight seeing
Relaxed start. Roy tinkered on the bike.
Headed to ARB to see if they could fix an intermittent fault in the car- failed front camera-so we lose cruise control.
They sent us out to Ford for calibration of the radars. Ford is booked in for Tuesday (after the race).
More work on the bike, then after coffee we all packed lunch and headed to Standley Chasm for a walk and coffee!
A beautiful drive down Larapinta Drive along the west MacDonnell ranges.
Standley Chasm
Saw: Grey headed honey Eaters
The walk into the chasm was lovely, and the light in the chasm itself was beautiful and a vibrant colour.
On return we had ‘coffee’ at the cafe.
Drove a bit further west and pulled off onto a track and down to the river for our sandwiches. Took loads of photos then headed home.
Street party tonight in town and dinner at the Todd tavern 7pm. Tavern was in chaos. Staff tried hard but had no clue. Clearly no one knew the systems. Guessing all standard staff left town when the curfews were put in place.
Home to watch second half of women’s state of origin. Hopefully a better outcome than the men’s game last night. (Not).
7th June 2024
Alice Springs; Scrutineering
Lots of organising bike and kit ready for this scrutineering this afternoon.
Satellite phone hotspot arrived from Adelaide- yea!!!!
We had a team strategy meeting over coffee in the van then walked down to the fancy new shop for the makings of spaghetti bolognaise for Sunday night at Finke camp.
Chris and I did the cooking while the boys loaded up the bike and got it ready. It’s always a long (cold) night out at the racetrack for scrutineering. No one can take bikes home until 9pm.
We headed out to the track for scrutineering around 3pm only to find that we were not only first there but the only ones there. Car park nearly empty!
Such a big drop off in competitors this year. Presumably the cost of living has hit hard and the cost of competing has gone up. Anyway, being first in line they used our bike as the training exemplar and we passed scrutineering OK. Parked the bike near the exit and wandered round for a while.
Long cold night
Caught up with the team, looked around the cars and had an early dinner before the big queues, bought paella from a food truck to share- was spicy and nice.
More looking at the cars and bikes then back to the car for more warm clothing. Chris and Graeme headed home but we are stuck here ‘til 9pm before we can take the bike home. Impressive fireworks heralded going home time, hooray!
Back to the van park, cold and tired.
8th June 2024
Alice Springs; Prologue
Out to the track at 9am.
Riders sign on at 10:30am then we headed down to the car to kit up.
Back up to the track for 11:15am for riders briefing, then back again to the car to get the bike off the car and head over for the sighting lap.
Raced back up to the top, near the race start line to find Roy’s starting time: 13:36.
Had lunch.
Took team pics.
A good start
Race time 6:51. Under 7’ was good.
After prologue, it’s time to pack up and head into town for maybe a bike wash. It was too big a queue at the car wash, so we hunted around using Petrol Spy app for a good price and filled up the car with diesel. Drove all over town for the best price as it was a big fill.
Stopped at the IGA and bought chicken for a curry dinner then home for a rest!!
Put the rock guards back on the car for the drive to Finke tomorrow. Packed things up ready for the camp out.
Team came in for a drink and I cooked chicken Rogan Josh with Naan and rice. They brought chocolate for dessert, and we all packed it in for an early night.
9th June 2024
Race Day one: Alice Springs to Finke.
Out to the track in time for sign on at 10 o’clock. We left the cabin about 8.30am to make sure we were there in plenty of time for Roy to kit up and take the bike up for the start, and to let us head off up to Finke to set up camp. Also an opportunity to take more team
We set off for Finke just after 10am. Me in our Ranger and the team in their VW Amarok. After a bit of fishing around for them to get fuel we ended up at Stewart’s Well for them to get fuel and a pit stop. Next stop Erldunda Roadhouse where we stopped to have our sandwiches. Neither of us needed more fuel. The long range tank in our car makes a big difference.
Made a quick pit stop at Kulgera and headed down the long red sandy Finke road for an additional 150km. Kulgera is an interesting place! photos:
Off to Finke!
Total about 400km Alice to Finke. Arrived around 3pm and caught up with Chris and Graeme on the 2-way radio. Chose a camp spot near where we usually camp. Areas either side are really packed! Our chosen site looked like a major camel route with lots of prints, looked fresh, traipsing through the site. Also, lots of little freshly dug holes; bettong?
According to our prearranged plan I then moved our car over to the road where Roy could see it when he came in and could then find us. As a result, I couldn’t set up camp at all so walked over the ridge to see if I could see the track and yes, a good view of the bikes coming in and I eventually saw Roy coming in, so I headed back to camp- he was already there by the time I got back. Looking only half dead.
I fetched the car and we set up camp.
All bike maintenance had to be done ourselves, “by the light of the moon”!
Heated the spag bol dinner on the induction cooker, Graeme lit a fire. Gave Roy a wash. Had to use the bucket for hot water and a washer as the new shower seems to have been left at home!
Delicious spaghetti bolognaise for dinner followed by Tim Tams from Erldunda – thanks Graeme.
We enjoyed watching the fireworks from a variety of different camps and the beautiful starry sky. Each encampment seemed to be in a competition to outdo each other with fireworks!
Early night. Turned cold but we had a blanket and sleeping bag so we were warm enough. Team members however were cold in their tent. Graeme ended up in the car!
10th June 2024
Race Day two: Finke to Alice Springs (there and back) .
As usual, there was lots of car noise very early and well before dawn as teams rebuilt their engines and ran them in. Finally, we heard the sounds of the first race cars heading off. We dragged ourselves out of bed around 7am and it was cool and beautiful sunrise, but not bitterly cold as in some past years.
Graeme got the fire going and we had hot tea and breakfast. The new camp set up in the car is working a treat. So easy to plug in the jug and the toaster!!
Lots to pack away that needed Roy’s help before he headed off to rider’s briefing- including packing up the roof top tent, toilet etc.
Eventually all done, Roy headed off to the start line,
Chris and Graeme headed off to see Lamberts dead Centre and I headed up to the start line. Roy flagged me down to take photos, especially with the ‘I made it to Finke’ sign, and a few other shots of the start area which is always colourful.
Off to Alice!
Then I headed off down the track/road to Kulgera and Alice Springs.
I stopped at Erldunda for my sandwich. Didn’t catch up with Chris and Graeme as they had made the detour to Lamberts Centre. Then, back in the car and home to the track at Alice. Made it there around 3pm and checked the leader board- Roy had yet to reach Deep Well check point.
He arrived just before 5pm very worn and worse for the wear but in one piece and safe. Another successful tilt for a spike.
Packed up all the race gear and then back to the cabin. Time for Roy to have a shower but not before we headed out to Lassiter’s to pick up the spike, photos, have a drink and head home for us all to eat the rest of the spaghetti bolognaise. I’m sure it tasted even better than last night. Finished off the meal with old gold chocolate with Baileys Irish cream. Yum! In to bed!
11th June 2024
Alice Springs; Ford service
Normally we get a big sleep in the day after Finke but not today. Had to get the car up to Ford for a calibration of the camera so we can get cruise control back for the big drive ahead. Roy and Graeme headed up to Ford around 7:30am as they opened at 7:45am.
Meantime I had enough dollar coins to put on a load of washing. A perfect warm sunny day for drying.
The day warmed up so much that I broke out a t-shirt for the first time and took off the leggings from under the jeans.
In preparation for heading North tomorrow we packed up what we could without an actual car to put things in- frustrating.
After 9am I was able to get 5 more dollar coins from the office for another load of washing and we booked another couple of night’s accommodation for the return trip.
Managed to sort out the Iridium Go satellite hot spot that hasn’t been working. Turned out not to have been activated properly, but all sorted out now with the provider once they finally answered their phone.
Back in Alice!
The car took so long at Ford that I ended up walking to the local shops for provisions rather than a big shop at Woolworths. Was able to carry enough to keep us going for a while.
Finally, the car was done and the boys headed off to pick it up.
Some bits calibrated but fundamentally the front camera module is faulty and needs to be replaced (incorrect as it turned out!). None in stock so no cruise control until we get home. All that time for essentially nothing.
We hurriedly packed everything into the car ready to head off in the morning.
Our lovely team took us out for dinner at Bojangles in town as a birthday treat for me.
Bojangles Pub
A fascinating place full of memorabilia- reminiscent of Daly Waters pub. A lovely evening out with them and we headed back for last minute packing and sleep.
12th June 2024
Alice Springs to Pamayu
Woke early well before the 6am alarm, shower, breakfast and throw last things into the car.
Results are in.
Headed out around 7:30am and filled up the long-range tank at the Shell servo as we headed out of town.
Headed north for phase two of the adventure. The Kimberleys!
We saw:
Aileron big man on the hill
Flocks of budgies across the road
Occasional small birds flitting across- maybe finches.
Lots of long straight road.
Kites
Wedge tailed eagle
Mulla mullas
Heading North
Stopped and boiled the kettle for morning tea around 10:30am.
Devils Marbles, Karlu karlu, did a quick drive through and took a few pics. As we had a long way to go and had camped here last trip, we didn’t stay long.
Filled the fuel tank at Tennant Creek
Lunch at Battle Creek. Good chat with another couple.
On to Pamayu. Had a lengthy road stop for roadworks only to find our destination of Renner Springs was a couple of hundred meters down the road!
After unpacking we had a bit of a wander around, found the springs where there was lots of earth works going on and a large windmill. A few water birds that flew away but couldn’t see any of the other birds that were trilling in the reeds.
We had a drink at the bar and a sunset walk around the springs then back to the restaurant for a Barra and chips for me, Parma the size of the plate for Roy. Both high quality and delicious.
13th June 2024
Pamayu to Manballoo
We had a reasonably relaxed start to the day. Made a full breakfast in the room and were driving out before 8am.
Back on the road in lovely early light. Farewelled the peafowl family that was hunting breakfast around the precinct.
Nice temp this morning. T-shirt temp.
Saw:
Couple of small pigeons flew across the road
Magpies beside the road
More kms of yellow pea and red grevillea. (bumper season never seen so much flowers)
Patches of pink flowers.
Kites
Crow
Corellas off in the trees
Apostle birds at Elliot
Pink flowered bush
Pee wees
Water under the bridge s with water birds- egrets etc
Increasing numbers of small dark termite mounds
Sporadic salmon coloured trunks on gum trees
Also sporadic white flowering gums heavily laden.
A girl on a Triumph pulled up where we stopped for tea so we offered her a coffee. Her name is Catherine from Hobart and she has ridden from Perth, normally works in Ethiopia as a project manager at this time but cultural issues prevent her from going over at the moment.
Temperature is heating up
We found a spot for lunch in the park leading up to Mataranka. Set up lunch and were joined by a pied butcher bird.
Filled the fuel tank at a cheap place north of town then headed out to Manballoo homestead where we have a cabin booked.
Checked in and turned on the air con- 38C outside. Too hot!
Once temps had cooled down a bit, early evening we went for a walk down to the Katherine River. It was a bit cooler by the river but still warm and lovely. More water than our last visit a couple of years ago.
After a wander downstream we headed back to barbecue some burgers and onion which were yummy.
Then indoors to chill out for a while.
Tomorrow on to Victoria river.
Victoria River Roadhouse
14th June 2024
Victoria River Roadhouse
We made a leisurely start on a cool morning. What a change from the stinking heat yesterday when we arrived. Air conditioners here don’t even have heat as an option! It warmed up to 20C quite quickly though we didn’t sit outside for breakfast. We were well on the road by 9am even without stopping for the 8:30am bull feeding opportunity. We did pass the group of people bull feeding on our way out. Looked like they were having fun feeding the huge Brahmans.
Very familiar and characteristic landscape with scrubby trees and grass underneath. Start of the red termite mounds. Quite small though.
What we saw
Turkey bustard strolling among the side of the road!
Tiny kangaroo hopping away from the road
Stopped at a wayside stop for a cuppa. Lots of caravans. Its a free camp site. Beautiful trees. Kids playing hide and seek with their dad. Some kapok and pink flowering bushes.
29C
Kites
Arrived 11:06am
Lunch down on the river, it’s been changed and we can’t easily drive off the concrete anymore. We still managed to find a spot to enjoy our sandwiches.
Pee wee
Small bird – rainbow bee eater?
Corella
Crows
Kites
First boab tree
Drove off to the right into the Old Victoria River crossing. 4wd only. Not crossing here! Beautiful scenery. Lots of photos.
Boiled the kettle.
Blue and red dragon flies, yellow butterflies.
Bus load of tourists “Gecko” tours. Can’t get away anywhere anymore!! How remote is this?
Back to our cabin for a rest. It’s very hot. Headed out to escarpment walk for 3:30pm start but still very hot. It gets dark around 5pm so couldn’t wait too late.
Short but steep walk. Water warmed up in the bottles quickly. I didn’t quite make the top, it was very hard going in the heat, and quite steep. Roy did. So glad we came. Amazing views over Victoria River and escarpment. New yellow wild flowers. Couldn’t reach the orange gum blossom.
Fantastic but very hot.
Back at the car 5:07pm 38C
Back to the room to drop core body temp before heading over to the bar for beer and lemon squash; battered Barra and calamari.
Nipped down to the bridge to catch the sunset just in time. Probably a bit later than we would have liked but we were too tired to race down before finishing dinner.
15th June 2024
Kununurra
We left Victoria River 7:45am to drive west in the golden hour light.
Settled in for the drive.
What we saw
Spur winged plovers (masked lap wings) on the ground at the roadhouse.
Bustard in flight
Galah
Small birds flying on the road/ finches?
Small kangaroo by the road-same as we saw at the roadhouse
Flock of pee wees
Flock of corellas feeding on the ground
Red termite mounds getting taller
Cattle by the road
Kapok trees
Willie wagtail
Dumped remaining greens at Timber Creek. In boab country now.
Flight of 7 black cockatoos
Stopped for tea 55km out of Kununurra
Lots of wildflower pics on phone.
Change in termite mounds. Still red but fatter, much more substantial but still quite short.
Orange flowering grevillea by the km!
Pic of hills in road 9km out of K.
Tourist information
Library for permit to visit the very top (not received yet in October!!)
Markets
Bought dry bag and water canteens at the local camping shop
Smoothie and carrot cake at cafe
Art Gallery
Hoocherie for lunch (not open Sundays!)
Premium rum
Spiced rum
Aguardinte- anise liqueur
First two mixed well with soda and lime, definitely not third!
When we left the hoocherie we headed back into town and found the IGA supermarket where we picked up some chicken, peri peri marinade and a few other bits and pieces for 2 nights dinner, then we headed out to the lakeside villas in Packsaddle Road. This time we have number one which is on the front looking directly onto the lake and, from the shoreline, Elephant Rock which is particularly attractive at sunset. It is a lovely spot.
With new owners it is subtly different. No one to welcome us or ensure we had the right place. We wandered around and enjoyed the scenery before setting out to cook dinner. As we had photographed the sunset it was getting a bit dark. The only cooking is the outdoor BBQ which is fine except the outdoor light didn’t work, the BBQ was filthy and when turned on was swarming with tiny ants!
We had text exchanges with the host who was in Perth and very solicitous. Promised to send her husband to fix things but it turned out he was away. Offered us an air fryer but by then we had brought in the camp gear to cook and used that for a yummy dinner.
No soap or shampoo in the shower so we used our own. Disappointing for a premium stay.
Nevertheless, a good sleep in a lovely location in a comfy king bed.
16th June 2024
Wash, shop and prepare day
Lots of re-organisation of the car and contents, then into town to the laundromat, gift shop and Cole’s supermarket. Big shop.
Collected washing and took it back home as there were no dryers available.
Kelly's Knob
Back for lunch and brief rest before packing and a dash to Kelly’s Knob for the advertised sunset extravaganza. Arrived just in time, just before 5pm, and yes it was a good view but mostly over the town. Best bit was the knob behind that is catching the golden glow of sundown.
Kelly’s knob at sunset.
Stopped to fill up with fuel. Not too bad a price here.
Back to the villa for dinner.
Just managed to catch the Boabs by the Weir before it got dark!
BBQ was cleaned but light still not working so cooked inside on camp cook top.
Water supply in car was leaking badly from the air valve. Explains the loss of water!
17th June 2024
Gibb River Road
Headed off to the Gibb River Road about 7:45am after a big reorganisation and pack up at Kununurra. Shadow selfie by the Boab out front.
Cut up a stubby holder to block the water tank leak in the car. Fingers crossed.
A beautiful sunny day 25C and not a cloud in the sky.
We saw:
Pee wees
Brahmans grazing
Took a video of Ranges as we approached Gibb turn off.
Looks like the roads are all open! Woo hoo.
Gibb River turn off- signage pics.
Big ranges Cockburn?
Guys flying drone.
Magpies
Stopped for pic of Boab in front of ranges.
Loads of termite mounds but very small and brown dirt coloured.
Pentecost River crossing.
Very busy as everyone lets down or pumps up their tyres here.
We saw:
Down by the river, pee wee, rainbow bee eaters and a guy in a boat fishing.
Video of a couple of cars coming through.
Dirt road from here
Brief stop Homestead Station. Bought t shirts each.
Recorded corellas on audio and had tea.
Photo Cockburn Ranges
32C 10:47am
Video of road. Small trees golden grasses, so green!
Brilliant orange flowering gum trees
White flowered gums
Video big water crossing.
Ellenbrae turn off. Red dirt, big red pond to go through.
Up to the homestead, very attractive buildings, green lawns and tables and chairs. Barred finches at the feeder.
Had scones and a mango frappe. Yum.
2 choices of camp
Ringers and Jackeroos. The latter further from the waterhole and less busy so we set up there before walking back over the road for a swim!! Cold water and lovely. Very small access beach and popular. At least a half dozen people there!
Back to camp, hot donkey shower was an option. Scrounged enough wood from the surrounds for an atmospheric fire but cooked on the induction plate. Can’t believe we have internet!
Orange grevillea smells strongly of honey!
Early night and watched movie in tent. iPad battery flat and lots of movies expired!
18th June 2024
Ellenbrae station
Cold night!
Should have known better and taken sleeping bag up top.
We had a leisurely breakfast before packing up and going to the larger Sandy Gorge – access only available to overnight campers.
We drove down 2km of narrow dirt road through the bush and then had a bit of a walk down to the sand. More than hot enough to want a swim by now- which we did and enjoyed the cool water. No sign of crocs. Not really expected!
By the time we had finished our swim and were ready to head back it was around 10am so we decided to head backs to the homestead for a repeat on the scones, jam, cream and mango frappe. Very good decision!
Tried to book a camp site at Drysdale Station but it’s a just turn up for camping. So headed out around 11:30am.
Charged my iPad on 240v outlet which worked well but used a lot of power.
12:30 – 30C
Lots more small but beautiful water crossings.
Turned right up towards Mitchell Falls and pulled up at Drysdale Station to stay the night.
Drysdale Station
Filled up with fuel at $2.90/litre, booked a camping site and passes to Mitchell Falls @100 for two.
Chose a camp spot. Made lunch then decided to move to a better spot and set up the tent.
Had showers, bit of hand washing and generally fussed around. Roy tightened up everything on the car. We changed some money for the campgrounds ahead that were ‘honesty’ systems.
Found the bar that opened at 5pm. They had internet and phone service!
Had loaded wedges, ‘big pour’ of wine and second thoughts about cooking dinner!
Might just skip to tea and a Mars bar!!
(nothing like a bit of health food!)
19th June 2024
Drysdale Station to Mitchell Plateau
Driving out of Drysdale at 9am to head off to Mitchell plateau.
We crossed the Drysdale River and other smaller water crossings. Road was rough.
We saw:
Magpies
Soon caught up to the grader and beautiful road!
Giant blob termite mounds
Beautiful oases at most water crossings
Willie wagtail
Pee wee
Forests of cabbage palms
Tiny birds flitting across the road
Very tropical landscape
11:40am 31C Mitchell plateau
Little pigeons drinking from river crossing
GPS gave us a bum steer into an aboriginal community.
Backtracked.
Termite mounds were more small and red again. Still cabbage palm forest.
Less than 200km from the Drysdale station to Mitchell plateau but a fairly exhausting drive.
Even though we caught up with the grader, much of the road was very corrugated, patchy, rocky and occasionally worse. Probably not as bad as we had anticipated though and the Ranger had no trouble.
We arrived in time for a late lunch. Tried to find a way to pay camp fees, unsuccessfully so far.
Once we had chosen a spot for the night, we set up table and chairs and had lunch. It’s very hot!
We walked over to the helipad office and booked a flight to return from Mitchell Falls tomorrow at 12:30pm. It’s a 2 hour walk in and the office doesn’t open until 7am. Later than we had planned due to the heat, so we’ll be on the doorstep before 7 so as to get a start in the cool.
Set up the roof top tent and walked into little Merton falls for a swim. Only 2km/15’ walk. Very beautiful and we had a lovely dunking in the pools above the falls.
Explored a bit before walking back for wine and chips at camp!
Have to keep looking around and just remembering where we are!!
Will get a back pack organised tonight for tomorrow’s walk.
20th June 2024
Mitchell Falls
5:30am alarm for plenty of time to be at the helicopter office by 7, packed and ready to walk. Got there about ten to 7 and waited with another couple for the office to open.
We realised that neither of us had brought money so Roy tore back to the car for his wallet while I got weighed in and realised I could pay with the credit card in my phone which I fully did! Roy eventually came racing back with wallet to find it all done and was not happy! Got weighed in and we had a safety briefing and headed up the track to walk to Mitchell falls, at 7:15am for approx. 2 hour walk.
First stop was at a sign to Merten falls
First stop was at a sign to Merten falls which seemed way too soon to be big Merten and was indeed the bottom of little Merten falls and was beautiful! We didn’t know to look for rock paintings.
We headed on and eventually stopped for a muesli bar at a Rocky outcrop view of a water lily pond before heading further.
Many photo stops later we arrived at big Merten falls which was a large gorge. We could not get a good view into the gorge without getting right to the edge so I didn’t; but of course Roy did.
Walked in past another lily pond to the Mitchell falls plateau and saw our first glimpse of these amazing falls. Walked off to the side to get a good look before walking on and finding a lovely spot for a swim and our lunch of Vegemite sandwiches! We had a great spa under a small waterfall. Even though small it was very powerful and difficult to swim against. Had to approach from the side to get a good seat!
Eventually, we packed up and headed back to the track which took us across the river towards the helipad. Roy took an extra unscheduled swim on the way across.
The walk from there around the cliff was fabulous and gave great views of the waterfalls. I’d have been happier if Roy had stayed away from the edges of the cliffs!!!
Back to the helipad area just after 12 to wait for our ride back to camp. We flew with two other passengers. A man and his small son. 3 across the seat was a squeeze and part of me was over the edge of the seat- in midair, no door! Took lots of pics. Hopefully some good ones!
Back to camp to rest during the heat of the day.
Around 3:30pm we roused from torpor and headed off to little Merten falls for a cool down in the ponds on top of the falls. A 15 min walk, not too hard but very welcome to get into the cool water and lower core body temp!
Took a couple of photos and headed back to make sure we were back before dark.
Enjoyed Happy hour with beer, wine and the last bag of chips before cooking butter chicken for dinner. Brown rice would take too much energy as we hadn’t a fire so I diced up onion, potato and sweet potato instead. It was all yummy.
Early night, movie and sleep.
21st June 2024
King Edward River camp; Day 1
Not far to go today from Mitchell falls to King Edward campground. Rough corrugated road but most freshly graded and probably as good as it ever gets. Beautiful countryside of cabbage tree palms. Tough terrain.
Arrived and picked a lovely campsite under the trees; time for a late morning tea around 11:30am. Used the gas for the first time to save electricity as the battery charge had not gone up much during the drive.
In the hunt for the gas cylinder we found the missing air pump and the gas lighter, so there’s a bonus!!
The campsite had loads of orange flowering grevillea and orange gum blossom so also lots of birdies.
Birdlife and flowers
We were watched by a pied butcher bird and managed some shots of a blue faced honey Easter. Saw noisy friar.
Doesn’t appear to be a water supply anywhere. We used a bucket for river water for everything but drinking.
After sitting in the shade drinking Gatorade and reading books, we set up the roof top tent, collected our swimmers and went looking for the river.
After a bit of a wrong turn we found the lovely river, perfect for swimming and even with ladders embedded in the rock.
Roy pushed on a bit further, of course, and found a lovely spot beside some small rapids, changed into swimmers and hopped in. Played in the rapids for a while then went exploring further downstream.
The rock beside the river is of the most beautiful polished red stone- quite slippery though. We found a moderate sized waterfall where we might try and swim tomorrow. There is apparently a bigger fall further on (no, that was it).
Many new flowers here. A sea of purple grass up by the loo. Small flowers in the swampy bits by the river.
Loads of birds including pied butcher birds, blue faced honey eater, crows, pee wees, corellas chopping off the orange grevillea and dropping it.
Back in time for happy hour!
Cooked dinner on our new spider gas cooker which worked a treat. First use. Saving electricity as we expect to be here 3 nights and have already had 2 nights at Mitchell falls. Battery is getting a bit low.
As dusk fell some micro bats flew through the camp site.
